Cody turned 7 on July 10th. He's our all around good guy who likes everybody.... provided they don't come on too strong. Definitely more a lover than a fighter. In the end he even left some Frosty Paws treat for his pals.
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Friday, August 31, 2012
Thursday, August 30, 2012
How to make your dog walk nicely
We're expecting a nor'easter in Massachusetts today, March 16th! It's supposed to dump around 6 inches of snow, maybe more. NEVERTHELESS... it's spring, tomorrow is Saint Patrick's Day, and the weather is bound to turn mild one of these days.
Mild weather makes us want to be outdoors - people and dogs! We all know that walking is great exercise and you would think that leash walking the pup would be a preferred springtime activity. Too often, though, we won't walk with our dogs because their on-leash behavior is awful. They pull and jerk us around. So some of us get retractable leashes thinking the dog will get some exercise and it will be less unpleasant for us. WRONG ANSWER. Retractables give your dog license to be out of control which is the problem with her on-leash behavior in the first place. And whose job is it to get pup under control? You guessed it! Someone once said, "When I see a dog behaving badly I look at the other end of the leash".
A tip: dogs need strenuous exercise, especially young ones. Pup will make a better walking partner if, while you're training her, you engage her in strenous activity before snapping on the leash. Try a few rounds of fetch in the yard - tennis ball, frisbee, whatever she'll chase. When she's panting and starting to slow down, snap on the leash and off you go.
All dogs need time to sniff and mark trees along the walking route, so allow them to do so. However, YOU are the one who should decide when that's okay and when it's not. I live on a pretty street where people love to walk their dogs and I'm always seeing owners who take their cues from the dog. Of course, this teaches the dog that she can do what she wants, because you will follow her lead. Don't allow that behavior!
It will take time and patience but you can teach her to look for cues from you as to what's next. Pat Miller, in her column "Good Dog Walking" in the March 2007 issue of The Whole Dog Journal, recommends using a clicker and treats to reward pup when she is walking nicely beside you on a loose leash. Begin by using the command, "Let's walk". This means that pup can do a little sniffing, peeing and exploring as long as she is not pulling on the leash.
Holding the clicker in your left hand and the treats in your right, move forward. When pup is beside you, click and treat. Bring your right hand around to her mouth. You don't want her to move around in front of you to get the treat. Click frequently in the beginning for being close enough that the leash hangs loosely between the two of you. Before long, she will realize that the treat comes when she is close by your left side. When she pulls out ahead of you, stop. Be a tree. Refuse to budge until she turns around to look back at you. As she does so, the leash will slacken. Click and treat.
If that doesn't work, back up slowly, increasing the pressure on the leash. As soon as she moves toward you, click and treat. When she has learned to stay close enough so that the leash is always slack you can begin to teach the "heel" command, which is a precise position next to your left leg used in close quarters of while walking among a group of people and dogs.
Don't give up! It's not safe for your dog or for you for her to ever get the idea that she's the one making decisions. You have to be the "alpha dog". Making the effort to be the leader is just part of having a pet dog.
The Doggie Den Homepage
Mild weather makes us want to be outdoors - people and dogs! We all know that walking is great exercise and you would think that leash walking the pup would be a preferred springtime activity. Too often, though, we won't walk with our dogs because their on-leash behavior is awful. They pull and jerk us around. So some of us get retractable leashes thinking the dog will get some exercise and it will be less unpleasant for us. WRONG ANSWER. Retractables give your dog license to be out of control which is the problem with her on-leash behavior in the first place. And whose job is it to get pup under control? You guessed it! Someone once said, "When I see a dog behaving badly I look at the other end of the leash".
A tip: dogs need strenuous exercise, especially young ones. Pup will make a better walking partner if, while you're training her, you engage her in strenous activity before snapping on the leash. Try a few rounds of fetch in the yard - tennis ball, frisbee, whatever she'll chase. When she's panting and starting to slow down, snap on the leash and off you go.
All dogs need time to sniff and mark trees along the walking route, so allow them to do so. However, YOU are the one who should decide when that's okay and when it's not. I live on a pretty street where people love to walk their dogs and I'm always seeing owners who take their cues from the dog. Of course, this teaches the dog that she can do what she wants, because you will follow her lead. Don't allow that behavior!
It will take time and patience but you can teach her to look for cues from you as to what's next. Pat Miller, in her column "Good Dog Walking" in the March 2007 issue of The Whole Dog Journal, recommends using a clicker and treats to reward pup when she is walking nicely beside you on a loose leash. Begin by using the command, "Let's walk". This means that pup can do a little sniffing, peeing and exploring as long as she is not pulling on the leash.
Holding the clicker in your left hand and the treats in your right, move forward. When pup is beside you, click and treat. Bring your right hand around to her mouth. You don't want her to move around in front of you to get the treat. Click frequently in the beginning for being close enough that the leash hangs loosely between the two of you. Before long, she will realize that the treat comes when she is close by your left side. When she pulls out ahead of you, stop. Be a tree. Refuse to budge until she turns around to look back at you. As she does so, the leash will slacken. Click and treat.
If that doesn't work, back up slowly, increasing the pressure on the leash. As soon as she moves toward you, click and treat. When she has learned to stay close enough so that the leash is always slack you can begin to teach the "heel" command, which is a precise position next to your left leg used in close quarters of while walking among a group of people and dogs.
Don't give up! It's not safe for your dog or for you for her to ever get the idea that she's the one making decisions. You have to be the "alpha dog". Making the effort to be the leader is just part of having a pet dog.
The Doggie Den Homepage
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
Natural Remedies for Kennel Cough
The usual remedy for attacks of kennel cough in dogs is a course of antibiotics. However, there are other possibilities, particularly those recommended by veterinarians who practice homeopathy. Below are some suggestions.
Nine Safe Remedies for Kennel Cough
Reprinted from webmed.comAs always, you should talk with your holistic veterinarian about natural remedies and the doses or applications most appropriate for your pet.
- Nosodes. A nosode is a homeopathic remedy derived from a pathological specimen. Nosodes stimulate the natural immune system to react against specific diseases. Kennel cough nosodes are particularly effective.
- Esberitox. This is a fast-acting Echinacea that I have found very effective in reducing the virulence of bordetella infections.
- Vitamins C and E. Vitamin C is an antiviral and E provides immune system support.
- Oregano oil has antiseptic, antifungal, antiviral and antibacterial properties.
- Astragalus is an herb used in Chinese medicine to enhance the immune system, support lung function and stimulate the regeneration of bronchial cells.
- Raw garlic and olive leaf are natural antibacterial and antiviral agents.
- Raw honey will ease the discomfort of coughing, and certain herbs will soothe and naturally suppress a cough, among them licorice root and marshmallow.
- Essential oils can be used to help a pup with kennel cough breathe easier. Oils of eucalyptus, lavender and tea tree have antibacterial and antiviral properties. Chamomile has a calming effect.
- Slippery Elm can help soothe sore and irritated throats.
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Monday, August 27, 2012
The Pleasures and Perils of Pools
Backyard pools are one of the joys of summer. However, we need to remember that they represent a drowning hazard to pets and wildlife alike; safety should be a priority for animals as well as people.
Not all dogs can handle water. Breeders and rescue groups will often refuse to place their dogs with families who have unfenced pools. Some breeds have a front heavy design (bulldogs, boxers, pugs) which makes swimming difficult, if not impossible. They can tire quickly and risk drowning. Even dogs who love to swim need to be supervised, and it's a good idea to teach them to go to the pool steps. It's safer for them and will save your pool liner! One person should be in the water with the dog, helping him toward the steps. Another person should be on the steps encouraging him in the right direction and offering a treat as a reward for using the steps.
Even the best intentions don't always keep gates closed to unsupervised animals, so the best solution is an exit ramp, such as the Skamper-Ramp. These ramps anchor to the side of the pool and are designed to attract animals. Once your pet steps onto the submerged end of the ramp, the ramp surface helps him crawl to safety. The Skamper-Ramp is available in pool supply outlets and online: www.skamper-ramp.com.
If your dog enjoys the pool regularly, remember to hose her off with fresh waterwhen she's done. Chlorine and other pool chemicals leave the coat sticky, and damage it over time. Dry, lifeless fur, dry skin, and rashes can be the result.
The Doggie Den Homepage
Not all dogs can handle water. Breeders and rescue groups will often refuse to place their dogs with families who have unfenced pools. Some breeds have a front heavy design (bulldogs, boxers, pugs) which makes swimming difficult, if not impossible. They can tire quickly and risk drowning. Even dogs who love to swim need to be supervised, and it's a good idea to teach them to go to the pool steps. It's safer for them and will save your pool liner! One person should be in the water with the dog, helping him toward the steps. Another person should be on the steps encouraging him in the right direction and offering a treat as a reward for using the steps.
Even the best intentions don't always keep gates closed to unsupervised animals, so the best solution is an exit ramp, such as the Skamper-Ramp. These ramps anchor to the side of the pool and are designed to attract animals. Once your pet steps onto the submerged end of the ramp, the ramp surface helps him crawl to safety. The Skamper-Ramp is available in pool supply outlets and online: www.skamper-ramp.com.
If your dog enjoys the pool regularly, remember to hose her off with fresh waterwhen she's done. Chlorine and other pool chemicals leave the coat sticky, and damage it over time. Dry, lifeless fur, dry skin, and rashes can be the result.
The Doggie Den Homepage
Saturday, August 25, 2012
Paws in the Park
On Sunday June 12th, Save A Dog held its annual fundraiser, "Paws in the Park", on the grounds of the VA Hospital in Bedford, MA. Save A Dog is an all-volunteer dog rescue based in Framingham that has found permanent homes for hundreds of unwanted dogs. The Doggie Den works with them to raise money.
It was a scorcher of a day - over 100 degrees in the field where vendors set up booths. Many breed rescues attended, including Boxer rescue, Greyhound Rescue, and Cocker Spaniel Rescue of New England. The Doggie Den donated a trainer (Janet) and equipment for the agility trials; and lots of folks contributed $5.00 for Janet to guide them through the various obstacles on the course. We all looked a bit like a wet t-shirt contest, as it was impossible to stay dry in the heat and humidity. Even the talented pups in the Blue Dog Group were slow to go into their frisbee dance act. There was lots of activity on the part of both dogs and people at the misting area and at the hoses. Some people just held a running hose over their heads! I bought a bottle of water, took a sip and poured the rest over the back of my neck. Heavenly!
There were various contests in the center of the field, including Best Dressed Dog; Best Dog Vocals; and Largest and Smallest Dog. I saw a well-dressed Cocker (in her flowered sun dress, matching visor, shoes and sunglasses) dart away from Mom to leap into a nice cool wading pool, one of many that Save A Dog had provided to chill out the pups.
Despite the heat, it was a rocking good time, and Save A Dog earned about $15,000, thanks to numerous contributors of food, equipment, and activities. If you live in Massachusetts or surrounding states, look for this event next year. It's really fun! We'll post it in advance on this blog.
Check out these dog links!
The Doggie Den Homepage
It was a scorcher of a day - over 100 degrees in the field where vendors set up booths. Many breed rescues attended, including Boxer rescue, Greyhound Rescue, and Cocker Spaniel Rescue of New England. The Doggie Den donated a trainer (Janet) and equipment for the agility trials; and lots of folks contributed $5.00 for Janet to guide them through the various obstacles on the course. We all looked a bit like a wet t-shirt contest, as it was impossible to stay dry in the heat and humidity. Even the talented pups in the Blue Dog Group were slow to go into their frisbee dance act. There was lots of activity on the part of both dogs and people at the misting area and at the hoses. Some people just held a running hose over their heads! I bought a bottle of water, took a sip and poured the rest over the back of my neck. Heavenly!
There were various contests in the center of the field, including Best Dressed Dog; Best Dog Vocals; and Largest and Smallest Dog. I saw a well-dressed Cocker (in her flowered sun dress, matching visor, shoes and sunglasses) dart away from Mom to leap into a nice cool wading pool, one of many that Save A Dog had provided to chill out the pups.
Despite the heat, it was a rocking good time, and Save A Dog earned about $15,000, thanks to numerous contributors of food, equipment, and activities. If you live in Massachusetts or surrounding states, look for this event next year. It's really fun! We'll post it in advance on this blog.
Check out these dog links!
The Doggie Den Homepage
Friday, August 24, 2012
Puppy Mill Raid to the Rescue
February 2009
American Humane Provides Emergency Sheltering for Dogs Seized From a Tennessee Puppy Mill Today
Puppy mills are large-scale breeding operations where animals often live in filthy conditions that foster disease and frequently suffer from the absence of even basic veterinary care. That certainly describes the conditions in which more than 250 dogs were found this morning, when the White County, Tenn., sheriff’s department initiated a raid on a puppy mill.
Right now, a dozen of our Red Star Animal Emergency Services™ responders are in Tennessee, providing emergency sheltering for the seized animals. Several of our responders were on-site during the raid, while others prepared and staffed the emergency shelter to accommodate the dogs being transported to safety. The overall effort is being led by the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), which is managing operations in the puppy mill investigation by the sheriff’s department. ASPCA disclosed that the dogs suffered from “...little to no food or water, lack of proper ventilation in enclosed areas, and feces encrusted pens. Conditions such as matting, sores, mange, poor teeth, abscesses, and a host of other medical conditions are prevalent.”
You Can Help!
Our highly trained staff and Red Star volunteer responders are working tirelessly to ensure that these poor animals are properly cared for in preparation for eventual adoption into safe, loving homes. Your donation today will help us continue these vital operations and prepare for our next animal emergency deployment. Please give what you can to stop the suffering of innocent animals!
Because this operation is a legal case, additional details are pending. However, a local newspaper, The Expositor, reported this afternoon: “The animals being rescued were housed in the residence and multiple buildings on the property. The dogs are small breed under 20 pounds, including Boston and Jack Russell terriers, Pomeranians, Shih Tzus, Chihuahuas, poodles, miniature Pinschers, and Schnauzers. The animals were examined immediately on the scene, with those needing emergency care transferred to White County veterinarians, who lent their services. The rest of the animals were transported to a temporary emergency shelter staffed by the American Humane Association.”
We’ll keep you updated as more details can be released!
Donate now to make a difference for helpless animal victims of disasters -- from puppy mills to hurricanes to wildfires.
All images courtesy of http://www.spartaexpositor.com/
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Our mission is to prevent cruelty, abuse, neglect and exploitation of children and animals and to assure that their interests and well-being are fully, effectively and humanely guaranteed by an aware and caring society.
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Wednesday, August 22, 2012
Pre-Thanksgiving Workout
Today the pups in the medium dog play room decided to work off some weight to make room for turkey. Take a look!
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Housetraining your puppy
One of the most common complaints we get from customers who're inquiring about training is that puppy persists in doing his business in the house. There are lots of different ways to dissuade him from this smelly habit, but the quickest way is to use positive reinforcement. Dogs have an easier time understanding what we DO want than they do sorting out our angry outbursts.
For example, if your puppy pees or poops indoors it does no good to yell at him, hit him, or rub his nose in it. All that tells him is that his human goes nuts when he relieves himself. You want him to think, "Gee, I have to go, better tell my human". And you're teaching him to think, "Gee I have to go, better get as far away from my human as possible 'cause she has a weird aggression problem".
The alternative? Watch your puppy closely and when he starts to squat, interrupt his action with a single loud noise that makes him pause, rush him outside and praise him lavishly when he finishes his business. A treat doesn't hurt, either.
If you miss him going into squat, don't cry over spilled..... um, pee. Don't say anything to him, just clean it up, and ignore any attempt to play with you while you're down there on the floor cursing silently.
And oh, BTW, the reverse is true. Rewarding a puppy for doing something undesirable is as foolish as punishing him for doing something in all innocence. Also, if he poops indoors and looks at you "guiltily", that's not guilt, it's fear. He's expecting you to yell or hit or whatever. Again, just IGNORE MISTAKES, and watch more carefully next time. Better yet, take him out at logical times, like after eating or drinking.
The Doggie Den Homepage
For example, if your puppy pees or poops indoors it does no good to yell at him, hit him, or rub his nose in it. All that tells him is that his human goes nuts when he relieves himself. You want him to think, "Gee, I have to go, better tell my human". And you're teaching him to think, "Gee I have to go, better get as far away from my human as possible 'cause she has a weird aggression problem".
The alternative? Watch your puppy closely and when he starts to squat, interrupt his action with a single loud noise that makes him pause, rush him outside and praise him lavishly when he finishes his business. A treat doesn't hurt, either.
If you miss him going into squat, don't cry over spilled..... um, pee. Don't say anything to him, just clean it up, and ignore any attempt to play with you while you're down there on the floor cursing silently.
And oh, BTW, the reverse is true. Rewarding a puppy for doing something undesirable is as foolish as punishing him for doing something in all innocence. Also, if he poops indoors and looks at you "guiltily", that's not guilt, it's fear. He's expecting you to yell or hit or whatever. Again, just IGNORE MISTAKES, and watch more carefully next time. Better yet, take him out at logical times, like after eating or drinking.
The Doggie Den Homepage
Tuesday, August 21, 2012
Excellent Hot Weather Advice from the ASPCA
I'm reposting this from http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/hot-weather-tips.aspx
Hot Weather Tips
We all love spending the long, sunny days of summer outdoors with our furry companions, but being overeager in hot weather can spell danger, ASPCA experts warn. "Most people love to spend the warmer days enjoying the outdoors with friends and family, but it is important to remember that some activities can be dangerous for our pets," said Dr. Camille DeClementi, Senior Toxicologist at the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center. "By following a few simple rules, it is easy to keep your pet safe while still having fun in the sun."
Take these simple precautions, provided by ASPCA experts, to help prevent your pet from overheating. And if you suspect your pet is suffering from heat stroke, get help from your veterinarian immediately.
Visit the Vet
A visit to the veterinarian for a spring or early summer check-up is a must. Make sure your pets get tested for heartworm if they aren't on year-round preventive medication. Do parasites bug your animal companions? Ask your doctor to recommend a safe flea and tick control program.
Made in the Shade
Pets can get dehydrated quickly, so give them plenty of fresh, clean water when it's hot outdoors. Make sure your pets have a shady place to get out of the sun, be careful to not over-exercise them, and keep them indoors when it's extremely hot.
Know the Warning Signs
Symptoms of overheating in pets include excessive panting or difficulty breathing, increased heart and respiratory rate, drooling, mild weakness, stupor or even collapse. They can also include seizures, bloody diarrhea and vomit along with an elevated body temperature of over 104 degrees. Animals with flat faces, like Pugs and Persian cats, are more susceptible to heat stroke since they cannot pant as effectively. These pets, along with the elderly, the overweight, and those with heart or lung diseases, should be kept cool in air-conditioned rooms as much as possible.
No Parking!
Never leave your animals alone in a parked vehicle. "On a hot day, a parked car can become a furnace in no time-even with the windows open-which could lead to fatal heat stroke," says Dr. Louise Murray, Vice President of ASPCA Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital. Also, leaving pets unattended in cars in extreme weather is illegal in several states.
Make a Safe Splash
Do not leave pets unsupervised around a pool-not all dogs are good swimmers. Introduce your pets to water gradually and make sure they wear flotation devices when on boats. Rinse your dog off after swimming to remove chlorine or salt from his fur, and try to keep your dog from drinking pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that could cause stomach upset.
Screen Test
"During warmer months, the ASPCA sees an increase in injured animals as a result of High-Rise Syndrome, which occurs when pets-mostly cats-fall out of windows or doors and are seriously or fatally injured," says Dr. Murray. "Pet owners need to know that this is completely preventable if they take simple precautions." Keep all unscreened windows or doors in your home closed and make sure adjustable screens are tightly secured.
Summer Style
Feel free to trim longer hair on your dog, but never shave your dog: The layers of dogs' coats protect them from overheating and sunburn. Brushing cats more often than usual can prevent problems caused by excessive heat. And be sure that any sunscreen or insect repellent product you use on your pets is labeled specifically for use on animals.
Street Smarts
When the temperature is very high, don't let your dog linger on hot asphalt. Being so close the ground, your pooch's body can heat up quickly, and sensitive paw pads can burn. Keep walks during these times to a minimum.
Avoid Chemicals
Commonly used flea and tick products, rodenticides (mouse and rat baits), and lawn and garden insecticides can be harmful to cats and dogs if ingested, so keep them out of reach. When walking your dog, steer clear of areas that you suspect have been sprayed with insecticides or other chemicals. Keep citronella candles, oil products and insect coils out of pets' reach as well. Call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 if you suspect your animal has ingested a poisonous substance.
Party Animals
Taking Fido to a backyard barbeque or party? Remember that the food and drink offered to guests may be poisonous to pets. Keep alcoholic beverages away from pets, as they can cause intoxication, depression and comas. Similarly, remember that the snacks enjoyed by your human friends should not be a treat for your pet; any change of diet, even for one meal, may give your dog or cat severe digestive ailments. Avoid raisins, grapes, onions, chocolate and products with the sweetener xylitol.
Fireworks Aren't Very Pet-riotic
Please leave pets at home when you head out to Fourth of July celebrations, and never use fireworks around pets. Exposure to lit fireworks can potentially result in severe burns or trauma to curious pets, and even unused fireworks can be hazardous. Many types of fireworks contain potentially toxic substances such as potassium nitrate, copper, chlorates, arsenic and other heavy metals.
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Monday, August 20, 2012
Runaway Dogs
In spite of the best care and training, some dogs run away. Sometimes they're frightened and want to get away from something specific, like loud noise (especially an owner yelling at them). Some dogs just yearn to run as far and as fast as they can. And then, sometimes there's something "out there" that they can't resist - like garbage! Beagles and Bassets are known for bolting on trash collection day. They can smell the goodness in the air! I used to have a Cocker Spaniel who raced me to the gate every Friday morning,'cause he knew what goodies all those curbside containers held! Then we'd do this foot thing with him trying to bolt between my legs and me fending him off with my lower extremities. He occasionally won; the good part was that he never got further than my next door neighbor's goodie bags.
What to do when your dog runs away? If you're there and see her go, grab her favorite food or treat and try to get in front of her and lead her to the treat. For example, you can jump in your car and go in the same direction as your dog, but go ahead of her; stop, open the car door, and try to lure her in with the treats. It's best to offer something that smells good. I've used cheese and raw meat in the past.
If that doesn't work, don't continue to pursue your dog. It's likely that he'll get caught up in the chase and go farther away than if you didn't pursue him. Animal control officers and rescue organizations have learned that dogs who are loose will generally stay within a 1 mile radius of where they got loose, unless chased further. So notify the local police, the local animal control officer, animal shelters, and near-by veterinarians and tell them that your dog is running loose. Describe him and any collar or leash attached to him. If he's not found in a few hours, put up lots of posters, with his picture (keep a jpg. photo of your dog on your computer!!); circle around the point where he got loose as you post. The first line on the poster should read REWARD! because that's what gets peoples' attention. And include your home and cell phone numbers, as well as the phone number of your animal control officer.
What to do when your dog runs away? If you're there and see her go, grab her favorite food or treat and try to get in front of her and lead her to the treat. For example, you can jump in your car and go in the same direction as your dog, but go ahead of her; stop, open the car door, and try to lure her in with the treats. It's best to offer something that smells good. I've used cheese and raw meat in the past.
If that doesn't work, don't continue to pursue your dog. It's likely that he'll get caught up in the chase and go farther away than if you didn't pursue him. Animal control officers and rescue organizations have learned that dogs who are loose will generally stay within a 1 mile radius of where they got loose, unless chased further. So notify the local police, the local animal control officer, animal shelters, and near-by veterinarians and tell them that your dog is running loose. Describe him and any collar or leash attached to him. If he's not found in a few hours, put up lots of posters, with his picture (keep a jpg. photo of your dog on your computer!!); circle around the point where he got loose as you post. The first line on the poster should read REWARD! because that's what gets peoples' attention. And include your home and cell phone numbers, as well as the phone number of your animal control officer.
Sunday, August 19, 2012
Dog Ownership is a HANDS-ON Job!!
It never ceases to amaze me the problems dogs can have without their owners noticing. I know people who aren't doggie fanatics don't fuss over their pups the way we do at The Doggie Den, but what comes into our grooming shop boggles the mind. It's now the busy holiday season, and many people who come in only get their dog groomed once or twice a year. In those cases, skin and coat problems tend to be well entrenched.
Day before yesterday, an owner brought us his bichon complaining that the dog scratched constantly. Maria (our groomer) turned him over and his belly was literally ALIVE! It was moving in a truly creepy way. Hundreds of thousands of fleas infested his belly, chest and bum. And who knows how many elsewhere? We soaped him up 3 times with our strongest flea shampoo, then disinfected the entire shop, especially the tub where we bathed him. I simply could not believe that anyone touching him would not have noticed the zillions of creatures moving around in his coat! We sent him home with Frontline and did our best to convince the owner to flea-bomb his home.
Shortly before that, a lab owner came in complaining that his dog stank. We also smelled the "dead things" odor. The owner thought pup must have rolled on a dead animal in the woods. When Maria went to take off his collar there was a wide band of horribly diseased skin and surface tissue underneath with no coat covering it at all. LOTS of dead tissue, which is what was causing the odor. Furious, Maria did manage not to turn to the owner and smack him upside the head. Imagine the suffering that poor lab endured while his family saw him as "fine!" Maria bathed and debrided the area with a medicinal shampoo. The odor went away and the dog looked as though he'd died and gone to heaven. Now you tell me, how the hell did no one in his family ever look under his collar in all those weeks?? Because it took weeks (if not longer) for the problem to reach this point. Was no one giving him an occasional scratch behind the ears??
Well, we rinsed and dried the dog and exacted a promise from the owner that he would take him to a vet immediately. Who knows if he did.
So, please, GET YOUR HANDS INTO YOUR DOG'S COAT! Often and everywhere. Scratch the area under his collar (it itches even if there are no skin problems; it ALWAYS itches). Give his ears a good, gentle rub. Put her on her belly and rub her chest and abdomen. Scratch the area on the inside of her back legs/haunches. Examine his bum for fecal staining or deposits and cut them out carefully with scissors if necessary. Give his underarms (front legs) a good scratch. And if you only have a second, well, scratch her back!!
Dogs need contact! They do it for each other in the wild. They often reciprocate by licking (grooming) your face. You think it's kisses, but for her, it's simply returning a favor. When I give my sheltie, Shuki, a good head and shoulders scratch she gets up on the back of the couch and cleans behind my ears! I have to remember to take my earrings off or she'll chew them!
Dog Days of August
August is a time when we love being outdoors with our dogs: on the beach, in the park, on our boat, in the yard, by the lake... wherever recreation can be had. Here are some things to remember while soaking up this last month of summer:
When they first go out, dogs don't always realize how hot it is. They want to run amidst all the wonderful scents of high summer. Pace your dog when it's hot even if he's overly eager at first. If he gets too hot and cannot expell all the excess through panting, he may get heatstroke. Symptoms of heat stroke are lethargy, dry panting or shallow breathing, shaking, and convulsions. If you suspect your dog has heatstroke, wrap him in a damp, cool (NOT COLD) towel and get him to the nearest veterinarian quickly.
Along with exercising your pup, take time to rest in the shade. On hot days alternate 10 minutes of exercise with 15 minutes of rest. Better yet, rest in the shade during the heat of the day and exercise with your dog at in the early morning and evening when it's cooler.
There's nothing about beaches that dogs don't love. Be careful she doesn't eat the marine life, though. To her it smells like a feast, but some forms of sea life are toxic to dogs. And if she goes near rotting fish, she'll likely roll in it and think she's in heaven!
Boat owners love taking their dogs out on the water and the dogs seem to enjoy it too. Make sure he has shade to lie in somewhere on deck. In a rowboat a blanket under a seat works fine. ALWAYS use a life preserver designed for dogs, and keep your dog on a leash. Dog safety on boats is a lot like child safety - they can never be unsupervised.
Finally, wherever you go BRING LOTS OF COOL WATER AND A DOGGY DRINKING DISH!
Your friends at The Doggie Den wish you
the best summer ever.
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When they first go out, dogs don't always realize how hot it is. They want to run amidst all the wonderful scents of high summer. Pace your dog when it's hot even if he's overly eager at first. If he gets too hot and cannot expell all the excess through panting, he may get heatstroke. Symptoms of heat stroke are lethargy, dry panting or shallow breathing, shaking, and convulsions. If you suspect your dog has heatstroke, wrap him in a damp, cool (NOT COLD) towel and get him to the nearest veterinarian quickly.
Finally, wherever you go BRING LOTS OF COOL WATER AND A DOGGY DRINKING DISH!
Your friends at The Doggie Den wish you
the best summer ever.
Check out these dog links!
The Doggie Den Homepage
Friday, August 17, 2012
Oh No, Another Birthday!
This is Louie's pal Elliot (see post dated Thurs. April 2nd). Elliot will be 9 years old on May 21st, but we goofed and gave him his party a month early. You can see Louie off to the left looking for his share of the birthday treat. And you know, Elliot never told us it's NEXT month, can you believe it? I suppose he expects us to do it again in May!Wednesday, August 15, 2012
Plants That Poison Your Dog
Mark your calendars, people! Sunday, March 15 kicks off National Poison Prevention Week—a perfect time to learn what’s poisonous to your pet. In 2008, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center handled more than 140,000 cases of pets exposed to toxins, many of which were everyday household items. Some of the worst offenders were those living things that keep your home fresh and green—household plants!In honor of National Poison Prevention Week, as the ASPCA, we put together a video of our top toxicologist, Dr. Steven Hansen, Senior Vice President, ASPCA Animal Health Services, discussing the dangers of 17 common plants that you may have in your homes right now, including lilies, chrysanthemum and sago palm. Dr. Hansen shows you examples of each plant, so you’ll know exactly what to look out for. To watch the video, go to www.aspca.org/news/national/03-13-09.html#1. Remember, if you suspect your pet has ingested something poisonous, please contact your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.P.S. Keep an eye on our website during National Poison Prevention Week, when you can ask ASPCA experts about potentially toxic plants and substances directly. Join our live “Ask the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center” chat from noon to 2:00 P.M. on Friday, March 20, in the ASPCA Online Community, and stay tuned for the relaunch of our popular Ask the APCC online column.
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Holiday Goodies (and Badies)
Okay, it's the holidays. Christmas cookies, potato latkes, fruit cakes, punch bowls, chocolate Santas or Chanukah gelt... whatever your tradition, it probably involves culinary treats. So this is the time of the year to remind everyone: PEOPLE TREATS ARE BAD FOR DOGS!!!
This is true almost without exception. Chocolate is downright toxic to dogs and the other stuff can make them ill in varying degrees. Alcohol is a disaster. It's not funny to watch Fido lap up the spiked eggnog. Really, it isn't. It could make him quite ill. And, dogs don't digest oily latkes or shortening rich fruitcakes very well. Mostly, what comes in goes out, and canine innerds suffer as a result of trying to process it. I run a daycare, and not a year goes by that the holidays don't bring horrendous diarrhea to my lovely, clean store. Yes, we have an outdoor yard. Ever tried getting diarrhea off snow and ice?? It's not a pretty task. And the pups don't feel that good either. They drink water and lie around looking perplexed that their body should betray them so.
So please, control yourself and discipline your kids so the dog doesn't get treats other than those meant for dogs. There are losts of holiday versions of dog treats for sale out there in Walmart, Pet Source, Target, your local supermarket or your local pet store. Take advantage and make sure your family understands whose treats are whose!
And what about dress up?? By all means! Hats, suits, collars, boots, it's all cute. 
just remember DOGS IN COSTUME MUST BE SUPERVISED. At all times. Left alone, they may very well decide to treat the adorable dreidel coat or reindeer antlers as toys... which means chew baby chew! And dog clothes are not safe for eating. I can't count the number of times I've looked on in sympathy while some poor four-legged tried to poop out yesterday's antlers.
just remember DOGS IN COSTUME MUST BE SUPERVISED. At all times. Left alone, they may very well decide to treat the adorable dreidel coat or reindeer antlers as toys... which means chew baby chew! And dog clothes are not safe for eating. I can't count the number of times I've looked on in sympathy while some poor four-legged tried to poop out yesterday's antlers.
So have a fun, happy holiday season - and help your pup to have one too!
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Monday, August 13, 2012
Dog Care for the Dog Days
August, the dog days of summer, time to take special care with our canine companions. Remember, dogs overheat MUCH faster than their humans! In August heat, they rapidly become dehydrated, so please, everyone TAKE WATER AND A VESSEL TO DRINK FROM WHEN YOU'RE OUT WITH YOUR DOG! This summer, as usual, we have had news of many accidental deaths from the heat. A dog officer who didn't check her kennel for a whole weekend. A veterinarian whose overnight kenneling facility was insufficiently air conditioned. And on and on. There have been incidences this summer of dogs dying in closed cars in a matter of MINUTES. It's hard to believe but it's true. They go into shock, their systems shut down, and they die. It only take s a few minutes in 90 degree weather for the inside of a previously air conditioned car to heat up to 200 degrees or more. For creatures with fur coats that means instant hyperthermia, heat shock.
If you see an animal in a closed car when it's over 70 degrees outside, report the situation to your local police immediately so they can find the owner and/or forcibly open the vehicle. Symptoms of hyperthermia are rapid, shallow breathing, disorientation, staggering, seizures, lethargy, and weakness. If you're witha dog who has overheated, immerse him or her in cool (NOT COLD) water immediately. If that's not possible, put cool, wet towels or fabric under the dog's arms and in his/her groin, and then cover the dog with a wet towel or blanket. And get him or her to a veterinarian immediately.
Here are some hot weather tips from the MASS SPCA:
If you see an animal in a closed car when it's over 70 degrees outside, report the situation to your local police immediately so they can find the owner and/or forcibly open the vehicle. Symptoms of hyperthermia are rapid, shallow breathing, disorientation, staggering, seizures, lethargy, and weakness. If you're witha dog who has overheated, immerse him or her in cool (NOT COLD) water immediately. If that's not possible, put cool, wet towels or fabric under the dog's arms and in his/her groin, and then cover the dog with a wet towel or blanket. And get him or her to a veterinarian immediately.
Here are some hot weather tips from the MASS SPCA:
- Keep pets at home vs taking them in the car.
- Exercise them early in the morning or later at night.
- Make sure they have plenty of fresh water. Rinse and refill at least daily.
- Leave pets in air conditioned spaces or use fans to keep them cool.
- Be sure window screens are strong and tight to prevent accidental escapes.
- Think twice before taking your dog to the beach unless it's early morning or late evening.
- Remember that breeds with short noses, like bulldogs, boxers and pugs can have extra trouble breathing in hot weather. Never exercise them in the heat of the day.
Thursday, August 9, 2012
Tick Season
It's April and the weather is slowly warming. In fact, it never stayed very cold for an extended period of time this winter, so you dog owners know what that means. Here come the ticks, and this year there'll be an army of them.
Tick season: that time of year when bloated little arthropod vampires get warm and hungry and feast on cattle, wildlife, humans, and DOGS. But ticks aren't just disgusting, they're also dangerous.When ticks bite wild animals such as deer or squirrels, they take in the bacteria these animals may harbor and can pass them along to their next host. Some bacteria can cause diseases in dogs (and in people) - dangerous, debilitating, and sometimes even fatal diseases such as Lyme disease, ehrlichiosis, babesiosis and Rocky Mountain spotted fever.
The problem is, it isn't easy to prevent those tiny, persistent and eerily aware critters from finding your dog. Ticks can sense trace gases, such as carbon dioxide, in the air, alerting them to the presence or approach of a warm-blooded mammal. Many ticks congregate in places where mammals tend to pass, such as in the bushes and trees along the edges of hiking trails, or even in tall grass or leaf piles in your own backyard. Ticks know where your dog is going. Creepy, right?
But don't be afraid. A two-pronged approach to tick management can keep your dog (and you) safe and, if not always completely tick-free, at least protected from the dangerous diseases ticks spread. Just follow this plan: prevention and prompt removal.
Precautions begin with keeping your dog well-groomed. Regular brushing, combing and bathing keep your dog's skin and coat strong and healthy. Ticks tend to prey on weak, dirty, sick animals with broken skin. A healthy, well-groomed dog is more attractive to us but less attractive to ticks, who prefer a dirty dog with a poor immune system for a host. To keep your dog's skin (and overall health) in even better shape, make sure s/he eats a balanced and high-quality diet, especially one containing esential fatty acids (EFA's) either in his/her food or as a supplement. EFA's help strengthen and improve skin and coat quality.
I recommend using a tick control product on your dog, though some people feel the treatments (particularly the popular spot-on variety) are too strong and potentially dangerous to your dog's health. In a later post I'll talk about natural repellents and remedies. But for the moment, let's just say that if you take your dog into woodsy areas often, a monthly spot-on product is a great choice. Ask your veterinarian about the best and safest tick prevention products, because he or she will consider your dog's health, age, size, and also the risk of ticks where you live.
Finally, keep your yard tick free. Keep woodpiles and brush piles far from the house and out of the fenced area where your dog plays. Keep your grass mowed short and trim the longer grass that grows along fences and around garden borders. If ticks don't have good, sheltered spots to hang out and await your dog's approach, they'll go somewhere more tick-friendly.
Prompt removal is essential because the longer a tick is attached to your dog, the greater the chances that it will transmit a disease. Most tick bites don't result in disease, but the chance that they could makes it important to remove the little blood suckers without delay.
Every time you go into tall grass, shrubs, or wooded areas with your dog, do a tick check as soon as you get home. Work through your dog's coat with a fine-toothed steel fleas comb or, if your dog has a short coat, just use your hands to look and feel all over for suspicious bumps and creepy-crawlies. Look carefully in the areas ticks like to frequent, such as behind or inside ears, around the rear end under the tail, or on the chest and belly where there is less hair and the skin is easy to puncture.
If your see a tick, use rubber gloves or a paper towel to protect your skin and remove it immediately. Drop in into a small cup of alcohol to kill it, then flush it down the toilet. If you think the tick has been attached for a day or more and you want to know if it might be carrying a disease, wrap it in a moist paper towel, put it in a small jar, and call your vet to see if s/he thinks you should have the tick tested.
Grasp the tick as close as possible to where its head is attached to your dog. Pull straight up, not to the side. The tick may come all the way out, or it may leave its mouth parts behind. Don't worry if it does. Pull out whatever you can, then swab the area with disinfectant and dab on some antiobiotic cream. Your dog's body will eventually push out the foreign parts, but keep an eye on the area. If it starts to look infected - red, swollen, filled with pus - give your veterinarian a call.
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Doggie Den Yorkie Turns 5 Years Old
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Wednesday, August 8, 2012
Debarking? Huh?
Every once in a while I see something about dogs online or on TV that makes me crazy. For example, I never watch America's Funniest Video's because the one time I did, they showed shots of dogs having weird accidents. It looked to me like the dogs were hurt, though not seriously. I was furious, then I saw that they do the same thing with children! There were scenes of toddlers falling down steps and, in one case, into a swimming pool. The audience thought it was hilarious. So a parent can earn thousands of dollars showing their kid having a funny accident. In several of the entries, the child was crying at the end. Guess I shouldn't be surprised that dogs were fair game.
Then the other night I saw a major network feature on debarking dogs. At first I thought it couldn't be what it sounded like. But... lest we not have a clear picture, the producers showed dog after dog having their vocal cords cut or otherwise damaged, as with a laser. Per the usual network practice of "balancing the story", we heard from those who were in favor of this practice, as well as those who were against. Didn't help, as far as I was concerned. One of the dog owners was a Sheltie breeder who had had consistent complaints from neighbors because of barking. So she debarked her dogs! I watched 20 seconds of Shelties in her back yard opening their mouths to emit a sound that resembled a sick cough. Daphne was appalled. She slunk out of the room, looking over her shoulder at me in unmistakable rebuke. I felt ashamed for humans.
Debarking involves cutting the vocal cords, or otherwise impeding their vibration. The dog is anesthezied, then an incision is made under his/her chin. It only takes minutes. Whoopee for efficiency. And the neighbors don't complain... how nice. This practice is barbaric!! It reminds me of another century when prison guards cut peoples' Achilles tendons to prevent them from bolting. It's just one example of the lengths people will go to to avoid the work of training their faithful companions. People will use electric shocks; collars that spray stinging fluids like citronella in their eyes and mouth; prong collars with barbs that dig into the flesh of the dog's throat and damage his/her esophagus; and now surgery, rather than teach the dog how to live with humans. Sorry, but there's no excuse. It's sheer laziness, not to say the need for instant gratification. Would you use a citronella collar to stop your 3 month old daughter from crying??? Would you put barbs around the neck of a toddler who constantly pulls away from you and gets herself into trouble?
I know, dogs are not children. But they are mammels with nerve endings and they hurt. It's just that they don't always show that they're in pain. So a Rottweiler with a prong collar who's dragging his master down the street doesn't look like he's hurt. If it hurt, he would stop, right? WRONG! Lots of dogs don't make the connection between pain and bad behavior. Almost all dogs can make a connection between good behavior and rewards. So why doesn't the guy teach his Rottweiler to walk nicely by giving him lots of hugs and treats when he does well?? It's just too hard, I guess. And then there's the issue of guys and macho dog breeds, but we'll leave that for another post.
The argument was made that some people would have to put their dogs down if they didn't cut their vocal chords. One judge even ordered a dog owner to have it done or euthanize the dog. Thank heavens, that judge no longer issues such orders because someone showed him exactly what's involved, and it repelled him. He now orders people to train their animals or give them up for adoption. Anyway the argument is ridulous. If you can't or won't take the time and effort to teach your dog not to bark, then give your dog to someone who will. Get help!! (from a trained canine behaviorist). It'll cost maybe the price of a dinner for two and a movie.
Then the other night I saw a major network feature on debarking dogs. At first I thought it couldn't be what it sounded like. But... lest we not have a clear picture, the producers showed dog after dog having their vocal cords cut or otherwise damaged, as with a laser. Per the usual network practice of "balancing the story", we heard from those who were in favor of this practice, as well as those who were against. Didn't help, as far as I was concerned. One of the dog owners was a Sheltie breeder who had had consistent complaints from neighbors because of barking. So she debarked her dogs! I watched 20 seconds of Shelties in her back yard opening their mouths to emit a sound that resembled a sick cough. Daphne was appalled. She slunk out of the room, looking over her shoulder at me in unmistakable rebuke. I felt ashamed for humans.
Debarking involves cutting the vocal cords, or otherwise impeding their vibration. The dog is anesthezied, then an incision is made under his/her chin. It only takes minutes. Whoopee for efficiency. And the neighbors don't complain... how nice. This practice is barbaric!! It reminds me of another century when prison guards cut peoples' Achilles tendons to prevent them from bolting. It's just one example of the lengths people will go to to avoid the work of training their faithful companions. People will use electric shocks; collars that spray stinging fluids like citronella in their eyes and mouth; prong collars with barbs that dig into the flesh of the dog's throat and damage his/her esophagus; and now surgery, rather than teach the dog how to live with humans. Sorry, but there's no excuse. It's sheer laziness, not to say the need for instant gratification. Would you use a citronella collar to stop your 3 month old daughter from crying??? Would you put barbs around the neck of a toddler who constantly pulls away from you and gets herself into trouble?
I know, dogs are not children. But they are mammels with nerve endings and they hurt. It's just that they don't always show that they're in pain. So a Rottweiler with a prong collar who's dragging his master down the street doesn't look like he's hurt. If it hurt, he would stop, right? WRONG! Lots of dogs don't make the connection between pain and bad behavior. Almost all dogs can make a connection between good behavior and rewards. So why doesn't the guy teach his Rottweiler to walk nicely by giving him lots of hugs and treats when he does well?? It's just too hard, I guess. And then there's the issue of guys and macho dog breeds, but we'll leave that for another post.
The argument was made that some people would have to put their dogs down if they didn't cut their vocal chords. One judge even ordered a dog owner to have it done or euthanize the dog. Thank heavens, that judge no longer issues such orders because someone showed him exactly what's involved, and it repelled him. He now orders people to train their animals or give them up for adoption. Anyway the argument is ridulous. If you can't or won't take the time and effort to teach your dog not to bark, then give your dog to someone who will. Get help!! (from a trained canine behaviorist). It'll cost maybe the price of a dinner for two and a movie.
Tuesday, August 7, 2012
Next Stop: Thanksgiving
Is it possible that Halloween's just a memory and Thanksgiving is zooming toward us?? It's a wonderful season, full of friends and family and dogs and PARTIES!
Dogs like to party too... but it's important to keep them away from people food and people drinks. At The Doggie Den. We get more upset tummies and GI tracts this time of year than any other time. This week we're going through the toxic chocolate (and other candy) syndrome. Unpleasant for the pups, for their owners and for us.
Sudden changes in diet can cause GI tract upset, even if the change is to a healthy food. So feed your dog his/her regular dogfood or a vet-approved alternative diet! And have a happy woof!
Monday, August 6, 2012
Housebreaking
Sometimes the term "housebroken" means you have a dog and he/she has broken your house! My elderly Sheltie, Daphne, has begun to make indoor mistakes on my beautiful Chinese rug in the study. Partly, I think her cues are subtle, and she doesn't have much time 'cause her bladder and bowels aren't as tough as they used to be. So she goes to the door and looks back over her shoulder at me. If I'm not there, or I don't notice right away, she heads for the study. Last Spring I had the Chinese rug professionally cleaned and the guy made me feel guilty about the odor in his shop!
Anyway, I went back to some house training tips that I'll share with you
Anyway, I went back to some house training tips that I'll share with you
- Supervision: young pups and old folks need to be watched more carefully than other dogs.
- Confinement: dogs that are vulnerable (the young and the old) should be taken out before you leave them alone, then confined to a small, safe place. The dog should have enough room to stand up, take a few steps, turn around, stretch.
- Praise, praise and more praise: make a big fuss when the vulnerable ones go outside, as in "good girl, Daphne! Good girl!" Then give a gentle hug and some pats.
- Scheduling: always feed at the same time and don't leave the food down for more than 30 minutes. Feed two meals, morning and evening. Evening should be three to five hours before bedtime.
- Clean, clean, clean: use a product made especially for pet stains, like "Resolve". Buy a stiff brush to be used only for pet clean-up. After picking up, or soaking up urine with paper towels, spray the affected areas and brush vigorously. If you don't do these things the dog will surely pee or poop in the same place again.
Saturday, August 4, 2012
My bone!
Hello, my name is Shimi and this is MY bone! Mine. You've seen the seagulls in "Finding Nemo"? MINE! MINE! It's exhausting, but I will guard this bone until my people come pick me up to take me home. After all, it's............. you guessed it, MINE.
Does your dog have a behavior problem??
How we raise, train and socialize our dogs has a huge impact on how they behave. If they have been well treated, all dogs, regardless of breed, have the potential to be well-behaved, and pleasant to live with. Getting a dog there may be more difficult with some than with others, depending on their natural tendencies. For example, labrador retrievers have the potential to be wonderful family dogs. However they have a HUGE amount of energy when they're young, and if not strenuously exercised on a regular basis they tend to be nudgy, nervous, clumsy, bossy, and generally a pain in the neck.
So when does a dog's behavior become a problem? Sometimes it obvious, like if she steals food off "people surfaces" (counters, tables). Or jumps on every guest who comes to your house. However, sometimes we wonder if our pup is behaving "normally", meaning are they behaviorally healthy?? For example, what about a dog who startles easily? Or one who cannot stand to let you out of his sight? Or we might wonder if its normal for Fluffy to pee on the living room rug when there are workmen in the house.
Here are some indicators of canine behavioral health:
So when does a dog's behavior become a problem? Sometimes it obvious, like if she steals food off "people surfaces" (counters, tables). Or jumps on every guest who comes to your house. However, sometimes we wonder if our pup is behaving "normally", meaning are they behaviorally healthy?? For example, what about a dog who startles easily? Or one who cannot stand to let you out of his sight? Or we might wonder if its normal for Fluffy to pee on the living room rug when there are workmen in the house.
Here are some indicators of canine behavioral health:
- Friendly toward people she meets, including well-behaved children.
- Friendly toward other friendly dogs, both those he lives with and those outside the family.
- Will readily give up control of food, toys, and other desired objects.
- Can be left alone for reasonable periods of time without panicking.
- Is relaxed during normal, everyday handling and touching: wiping her feet, brushing her coat, looking in her ears, looking in her eyes.
- Calms down quickly after being startled if there's no cause for alarm.
- Barks when necessary or appropriate, but will stop when told to.
- Plays well without becoming too rough.
- Doesn't damage his owner's possessions.
- Is affectionate without being needy, clingy, or annoying.
- Can adapt to changes such as travel, movement, confinement to a carrier with minimal problems.
If your dog doesn't meet half or more of these criteria, she needs help, preferably from a trained canine behaviorist who's willing to meet with you and your pet in your home to determine what factors might be altered to support changes her behavior. Of course, all of the criteria are not of equal importance. If your dog growls at friendly strangers, he needs immediate help, even if he meets all of the other criteria. Some of the criteria on the list may be less important to you than others, depending on your lifestyle. For example, if you have small children it is crucial that your dog not guard his possessions. Toddlers must be able to approach a pet that is eating without getting bitten! On the other hand, if you live in the country and/or your neighbors don't complain, you may be tolerating an abnormal amount of barking, simply because you've never trained your dog to stop when told.
And, no it's not healthy for a pet to pee on the carpet when there's a stranger in the house, or for her to leap up in a fright when someone drops something nearby.
Friday, August 3, 2012
Dogs in the Snow
In January, dog ownership can get complicated. Some pups love the snow, ice, sleet & hail. Lots of pups are more sensible though, and hate it; so how in the world do you get the haters to do their business outside? Even dogs like Huskeys and Malamutes who are bred for snow will sometimes gleefully run through snow piles outdoors, then come into your living room to pee!
First of all, dogs with thin coats need to be covered when it's below freezing, even if they're only out for a brief time. Boxers, Great Danes, Bulldogs, Chihuahuas, Dobermans, Pointers... all the pups with little to no insulation need a warm coat and possibly foot coverings that are made for dogs. Check petedge.com for coats and boots. If you send these dogs out uncovered, the risk is that after a few moments, all they'll think about is how to get back inside. Where they will procede to dump in your study or pee on baby's highchair.
The next problem is where do they go? If you're like most households, snow shoveling and snow blowing have made Fluffy's favorite spot inaccessible. Most likely, she will try to get to her usual place while looking back at you in great perplexity. Little dogs often stare at piles of snow and give up entirely. So it's advisable to keep an outdoor space clear for your dog(s) in the winter. If someone plows your driveway, you can walk the dogs there, giving them a treat when they relieve themselves, so they'll know that the driveway's ok in the winter. Don't worry about poops in your June driveway - dogs prefer dirt, garden, or lawn if they can get to it.
If there's no driveway option, clear a space on your property. I make a circle about 15 feet in diameter just to the side of the porch steps, because like many canines, Benny and Daphne wander in circles when they need to poop. Daphne even does it before she pees. You need a long-handled pooper-scooper set-up so you can clean up after they do their deed, whether they chose your cleared area or the side of a snowpile. It is rare that nature presents a more revolting spectable than a springtime dogpatch that has not been kept clean. I keep a small covered bucket with a trash bag liner in the cleared area. I clean up pee spots too, 'cause I don't want my lawn to go into shock when the snow melts. Once a week the poopy bucket liner goes out with the trash.
If they're having a good time outside, dogs love to eat snow. Not a great idea. We get lots of intestinal infections in Doggie Den Day Care with dogs who have eaten unclean snow. Even in a pristine area, they like to lick snow where other mysterious beings have trod, and moose pee is not necessarily a good nutrient. So have a good time, keep her warm, limit the snow intake, and keep one area clean and clear for when she needs to get serious.
First of all, dogs with thin coats need to be covered when it's below freezing, even if they're only out for a brief time. Boxers, Great Danes, Bulldogs, Chihuahuas, Dobermans, Pointers... all the pups with little to no insulation need a warm coat and possibly foot coverings that are made for dogs. Check petedge.com for coats and boots. If you send these dogs out uncovered, the risk is that after a few moments, all they'll think about is how to get back inside. Where they will procede to dump in your study or pee on baby's highchair.
The next problem is where do they go? If you're like most households, snow shoveling and snow blowing have made Fluffy's favorite spot inaccessible. Most likely, she will try to get to her usual place while looking back at you in great perplexity. Little dogs often stare at piles of snow and give up entirely. So it's advisable to keep an outdoor space clear for your dog(s) in the winter. If someone plows your driveway, you can walk the dogs there, giving them a treat when they relieve themselves, so they'll know that the driveway's ok in the winter. Don't worry about poops in your June driveway - dogs prefer dirt, garden, or lawn if they can get to it.
If there's no driveway option, clear a space on your property. I make a circle about 15 feet in diameter just to the side of the porch steps, because like many canines, Benny and Daphne wander in circles when they need to poop. Daphne even does it before she pees. You need a long-handled pooper-scooper set-up so you can clean up after they do their deed, whether they chose your cleared area or the side of a snowpile. It is rare that nature presents a more revolting spectable than a springtime dogpatch that has not been kept clean. I keep a small covered bucket with a trash bag liner in the cleared area. I clean up pee spots too, 'cause I don't want my lawn to go into shock when the snow melts. Once a week the poopy bucket liner goes out with the trash.
If they're having a good time outside, dogs love to eat snow. Not a great idea. We get lots of intestinal infections in Doggie Den Day Care with dogs who have eaten unclean snow. Even in a pristine area, they like to lick snow where other mysterious beings have trod, and moose pee is not necessarily a good nutrient. So have a good time, keep her warm, limit the snow intake, and keep one area clean and clear for when she needs to get serious.
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